One of the most delightful places I’ve visited is Parma, Italy. It is a pretty, pleasant city full of life, entertainment, and wonderful food, yet it emanates an air of blissful tranquility. I spent five weeks there and I was supremely happy. It certainly is worth visiting Parma.
The historic district of Parma and much of its surroundings are very walkable. There are many pedestrian zones and the road traffic seems to always be light. Shops and restaurants are scattered throughout. A short 15 minute or less walk will always take you to a grocery store, pharmacy, clothing store, restaurant, pastry shop, and coffee bar. There are also many specialty boutiques in most neighborhoods.
A Little History:
Parma has a long history. From 1500 to 800 BC the region was occupied by small villages made up of wood houses on piles. In the next 500 years these villages came under Etruscan rule until the region was subdued by the Romans in 183 BC. Rome then “encouraged” a very large group of Roman citizens to settle in the area to found the colony of Parma.
After Rome’s transition from republic to empire, Parma continued to grow and prosper. But as the empire experienced chaos and instability in the 4th and 5th centuries AD, Parma’s fortunes rose and fell repeatedly.
Finally, in 476 AD, the Roman empire collapsed when the Ostrogoths migrated south and conquered much of Italy including Parma. The tide turned again in the 6th century AD when the Byzantines (formerly, the eastern half of the Roman Empire) defeated the Ostrogoths.
In 569 AD, Parma was made a Duchy of the Lombards who shortly before had come south from Germanic lands and conquered and divided up northern Italy. But Parma lost its “self-rule” nearly 200 years later when the Frankish empire expanded and absorbed much of northern Italy. After the death of Charlemagne, much of the Frankish empire gradually disintegrated and Parma and many other northern Italian cities became self-governing republics.
Growth and trade brought wealth to these republics. Unfortunately, trade-related quarrels, greed, and lust for power between the Italian republics often led to warfare and temporary loss of independence.
But from 1500 until it was absorbed into the new nation of Italy in 1847, Parma passed alternately under the control of the Spanish, the Papal State, and the French.
What to do during your stay in Parma:
1. Visit the Palazzo della Pilota
The Palazzo della Pilotta is a collection of cultural institutions and museums located in Piazzale della Pace in the historical center of Parma. It consists of:
- the National Archaeological Museum
- the Liceo Artistico Statale Paolo Toschi (an art school named for Paolo Toschi)
- the Museo Bodoniano (a museum dedicated to Giambattista Bodoni)
- the Teatro Farnese
- the Galleria Nazionale di Parma
- the Palatine Library
The palace itself was built around 1583 during the reign of Duke Ottavio Farnese (whose father was the illegitimate son of Pope Paul III). In 1871 the Teatro Paganini (formerly named the “Reinach Theatre”) was inaugurated. However, aerial bombardment by the allies during World War II destroyed the theater and part of the palace. The buildings were later repaired or rebuilt between 1986 and 2001.
2. Visit la Casa della Musica
La Casa della Musica was built in the 15th century and is located in Palazzo Cusani. It consists of the following:
- a concert hall
- an auditorium
- a book and media library
- the historical archive of the Teatro Regio
3. Visit il Castello dei Burattini
Il Castello dei Burattini has a wonderful collection of traditional and some contemporary puppets. It is located in the rooms of the former convent of San Paolo.
4. Visit the Pinacoteca Stuard
The Pinacoteca Stuard is an art museum that opened in 2002. It resides in a wing of the ancient Benedictine monastery of St. Paolo, whose oldest parts date back to the 10th century. It includes some valuable Tuscan religious works dating to the 14th and 15th centuries.
It comprises 22 rooms and includes paintings, portraits, relics, period furniture, and tapestries.
5. Visit the Piazza Garibaldi
Parma, like many Italian cities, is centered on one of its piazzas. Parma’s main piazza is Piazza Garibaldi which sits on the site where the ancient Roman forum used to be. It is bounded on the north by the 17th-century Palazzo del Governatore in which Parma’s municipal offices are located. The piazza has for centuries served as the civil, religious and commercial center of Parma. Actually, the Palazzo del Governatore is built on the former 13th century Palazzo dei Mercanti which had housed the merchants’ guild.
On the west side of Piazza Garibaldi is another 13th century building, the Palazzo Vecchio (also known as Palazzo del Comune) which is lined with a loggia. Piazza Garibaldi is partly surrounded by outdoor cafes and a variety of shops.
6. Visit the APE Parma Museum
When I first entered the APE Parma Museo I didn’t think it looked very promising. But when I got past the lecture rooms and auditorium and to the exhibits I was really impressed. (Since “APE” is an acronym for “Art, Performance, Events”, it makes sense that it has lecture rooms and an auditorium.) The museum has temporary exhibitions that span all sorts of artistic endeavors.
The first exhibit we saw was a photography exhibit showing Parma during and after WWII. It was shocking to see the severe damage allied bombing had done to the buildings we recognized. It was fortunate that Parma was able to restore so many of them.
Another exhibit was in celebration of the Mediterranean Sea. It included many abstract sculptures focusing on the importance of the fishing and canning industry to the Mediterranean civilizations.
7. Visit the Museo Glauco Lombardi
This museum honors Marie Louise, the second wife of Napolean Bonaparte, who was Duchess of Parma from 1814 until her death in 1847. It is her former residence and displays many of her collections.
She was much liked and respected by the citizens of Parma for her efforts to improve the quality of life for all of Parma’s residents. Much of her work focused on charity and the promotion of well-being. These include building orphanages, hospitals, providing a fairer civil and criminal code, and supporting local agriculture and industry. She also improved public education by creating new schools and a university.
In the arts, she had the Royal Theater of Parma built and expanded the National Gallery. She was responsible for Parma becoming an important artistic and cultural center in Europe.
8. Visit the outdoor markets
Parma outdoor markets are lively celebrations of food, crafts, antiques, and odds and ends. They are also an opportunity for friends and acquaintances to meet and chat. In my opinion outdoor markets form the soul of a community and this is so true in Italy.
Parma is blessed with several outdoor markets. The ones near or not far from the central district are located at:
- Piazzale San Bartolomeo (half way between the Torrente Parma stream and Piazza Garibaldi
- Corner of Viale Giovanni Marrioti and Strada Giuseppe Mazzini
- Strada da Matteo Renato Imbriani (next to Convento della Santissima Annunziata)
- Piazzale Tomaso Barbieri
The days and the hours they are open varies with the seasons. Check with tourist information for the details.
9. Visit the Parco Cittadella
The Parco Cittadella is a wonderful place for families, students, joggers, and just about anybody who enjoys a pleasant verdant area full of life and activity. There are basketball courts, elaborate playgrounds and amusement park rides for young children, and walking and cycling trails amid lots of greenery. It is a joy watching the children play in such a peaceful setting. The park also seems to be a popular place for students to read or study and for young couples to have a picnic.
Parco Cittadella also includes large flower beds where a variety of wild flowers are grown and a station for bees and butterflies to build their homes. The only major building inside the park serves mostly as a children’s education center about nature. It also includes a small sandwich shop and a small dining area. Outside the building there is a large arbor with many tables for those who prefer to eat outdoors.
The park lies inside a 16th-century pentagonal fortress complete with ramparts and moat. Eventually abandoned when no longer needed, the fortress fell into neglect for many years. In 2009 it was finally restored and made into a park.
10. Visit the Parco Ducale
The original park was created by Duke Ottavio Farnese in 1561 around his new villa. With the decline of the Farnese family, the property was taken over by Duke Philip of Bourbon. In 1749 he commissioned the total renovation of the park. The ownership of the land changed again when Maria Luigia became Duchess of Parma. She commissioned a partial restoration of the park and introduced many new tree species. After the unification of Italy, the land became a public park.
The park is laid out in a huge rectangle with a large pond near the west end. It includes more than 1500 species of trees in stands separated by numerous crisscrossing footpaths. Many of these trees are centuries-old. The Parco Ducale includes a children’s area, a dog park, and an area with outdoor tables and benches.
At one corner of the Parco Ducale sits the Palazzo Ducale. Its original structure dates back to 1561-64. Between the late 1500s and the early 1600s it was enlarged to its current size. It now serves as the headquarters of the Italian Carabinieri.
11. Take day trips from Parma
Parma is an excellent central point from which to take day trips to interesting towns. The following places are definitely worth a visit:
- Bologna (less than an hour each way by train)
- Cremona (less than an hour each way by train)
- Ferrara (an hour and a half each way by train)
- Florence (an hour and a half each way by train)
- Milan (less than an hour each way by train)
- Modena (30 minutes each way by train)
- Piacenza (30 minutes each way by train)
12. Enjoy the food in Parma
Words cannot do justice to the food in Parma. I think I will let my photographs do the talking …
Tourist information office:
The tourist information office is located at Piazza Garibaldi, 1. The office provides free maps and excellent information about local attractions.
Restaurants, etc.:
Stay away from the restaurants on Piazza Garibaldi and in the vicinity of Palazzo della Pilotta. Although they will have good food they tend to be very expensive. Look for restaurants in the side streets and south of Piazza Garibaldi. They will offer tasty dishes at reasonable prices.
- Trattoria Tribunale, Vicolo Politi, 5
- Gallo D’Oro, Borgo della Salina, 3
- Trattoria Sorelle Picchi, Strada Farina, 27
- Focaccia & Pizza (sandwich shop and take-out): Frank Focacceria, Borgo San Lorenzo, 19
- Fresh Italian pasta and side dishes (take-out): Panificio Rosetta, Strada XXII Luglio, 10/A
Train and Bus Information:
- The Parma train station is located in Piazza Paolo Carlo Alberto dalla Chiesa, just a few blocks north of the historic center, and just east of the Torrente Parma stream.
- The bus station is located next to the train station. (You can’t miss it. You will see several buses arriving or waiting to depart.)
- You can see schedules and buy tickets at the bus or train stations or you can use any of the following apps or web sites:
(buses and trains) www.rome2rio.com or Rome2Rio app
(mostly trains but also some buses) www.trainline.com or trainline app